Adapted from Kitchen Tigress
Ingredients:
145g egg white
1/8tsp cream of tartar
75g sugar
75g butter
55g flour
30g cocoa powder
30g milk
65g egg yolk
1tsp coffee extract
1/8 tsp salt
Melt butter. When it is completely melted and starting to foam, dump in the cocoa powder and flour. Whisk in.
Whisk in the milk, then the yolks one at a time. Add the coffee extract and salt with the last of the egg yolk.
Whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar and sugar until firm peaks.
Fold the egg whites in thirds into the cocoa batter.
Bake at 170C for about 30 minutes.
Notes:
My cake rose, cracked, and then sank while cooling. I could not invert the cake in the pan to cool because it rose too high -- out of a fairly tall pan.
I might have done better to use a slightly larger pan because I increased all the ingredients a little.
Tasting Notes:
The flavor is good, but the texture has much to be desired. Back to the drawing board.
Sunday, 24 May 2015
Genoa Cake, or Pain de Genes
Adapted from From Buenos Aires to Paris, originally a Pierre Hermes recipe
Ingredients:
3 eggs -- 55g each
200g marzipan -- see notes
50g all-purpose flour
40g butter
1/2 tsp baking powder
1 tbsp rum
Line the bottom of a 18cm round tin.
Blend the marzipan with the eggs -- see notes.
Put the marzipan mixture over a hot water bath, and whisk until it hits 60C.
Take off heat.
Whip the marzipan mixture until you can drizzle the outline of a star over the mixture, and it lasts long enough to see complete picture.
Whisk in the rum.
Whisk in the butter.
Whisk in the flour.
Bake at 180C for 20 minutes, or until the skewer comes out clean.
When cool, wrap in clingwrap and store at room temperature for 2 days.
Notes:
The marzipan should be at least 52% almond, and it should still be soft when you take it out the package.
The original recipe suggests beating the eggs in one at a time with a stand mixer. Given the texture of the marzipan, I think using a blender is faster. I used a stick blender, but if I were making a larger quantity, I would chuck all the eggs and marzipan into a jug blender and whizz away. It would probably be less messy.
I used cacao rum for this, but I do not see why you could not use extract (perhaps a little less, maybe a tsp, or 1.5 tsp) instead. To be honest, the rum flavor was not very noticeable anyway.
I bet this cake freezes fairly well, and would be something awesome to have in the fridge for last minute toasting to serve with ice cream or poached fruit.
Tasting Notes:
Pretty good. This actually makes a fairly small cake, so you might want to double it because it is an excellent cake.
Ingredients:
3 eggs -- 55g each
200g marzipan -- see notes
50g all-purpose flour
40g butter
1/2 tsp baking powder
1 tbsp rum
Line the bottom of a 18cm round tin.
Blend the marzipan with the eggs -- see notes.
Put the marzipan mixture over a hot water bath, and whisk until it hits 60C.
Take off heat.
Whip the marzipan mixture until you can drizzle the outline of a star over the mixture, and it lasts long enough to see complete picture.
Whisk in the rum.
Whisk in the butter.
Whisk in the flour.
Bake at 180C for 20 minutes, or until the skewer comes out clean.
When cool, wrap in clingwrap and store at room temperature for 2 days.
Notes:
The marzipan should be at least 52% almond, and it should still be soft when you take it out the package.
The original recipe suggests beating the eggs in one at a time with a stand mixer. Given the texture of the marzipan, I think using a blender is faster. I used a stick blender, but if I were making a larger quantity, I would chuck all the eggs and marzipan into a jug blender and whizz away. It would probably be less messy.
I used cacao rum for this, but I do not see why you could not use extract (perhaps a little less, maybe a tsp, or 1.5 tsp) instead. To be honest, the rum flavor was not very noticeable anyway.
I bet this cake freezes fairly well, and would be something awesome to have in the fridge for last minute toasting to serve with ice cream or poached fruit.
Tasting Notes:
Pretty good. This actually makes a fairly small cake, so you might want to double it because it is an excellent cake.
Friday, 24 April 2015
Momofuku Ssam Bar, New York, USA
We randomly walked in and got a table.
I was trying to go to Booker & Dax, but accidentally made a reservation for the wrong the day. We wandered into Ssam Bar first, though, and they just happened to have some seats for three! Matthias's awesome luck as always.
Seven Spice Sour - Sake, Yuzu, Lime, Shichimi
I think this was possibly my favorite cocktail through my stay in New York. The shichimi was sneaky, and I did not realise for some time that the kick was setting in. But the balance of yuzu and shichimi was exceptionally on point.
Green Pal - Japanese Whiskey, Manzanilla Sherry, Dry Vermouth, Shiso
Matthias's cocktail. Pretty good, but on the sweeter side still for him, even though I asked for less vermouth.
Spicy Shrimp Roll - Daikon, Green Mango, Peanut
I do not actually remember this one being spicy, but it was a pretty good take on a Vietnamese rice roll. The sauce was pretty good.
Diver Scallop - Ham Dashi, Radish, Thai Basil
The dashi was jelled, and it covered the entire dish. Nice texture, but it and the radish kinda overwhelmed the scallops.
Pig Ear Ssam
Not on the menu any more, it seems. But it was delicious -- Matthias ate half of it. The pig ears were fried, and they came already pre-made into ssam.
Grilled Flat Iron Steak - Ramp, Parsnip, Nettle
Matthias ordered this because steak and nettle. It came with what looked and tasted like tendon puffs to me (is this a trend? I have had this in a few other places recently too). He overwhelmingly approved of this dish.
Passion Fruit Pie - Coffee, Cilantro
Surprisingly delicious. I ordered just to try, since we were there, and was not particularly keen on either offering. But the pairing of passion fruit and what tasted like a coffee crumb or coffee cookie works deliciously well. The cilantro was rather lost, however.
Overall
Pretty good. I think Matthias liked the food more than I did.
I was trying to go to Booker & Dax, but accidentally made a reservation for the wrong the day. We wandered into Ssam Bar first, though, and they just happened to have some seats for three! Matthias's awesome luck as always.
Seven Spice Sour - Sake, Yuzu, Lime, Shichimi
I think this was possibly my favorite cocktail through my stay in New York. The shichimi was sneaky, and I did not realise for some time that the kick was setting in. But the balance of yuzu and shichimi was exceptionally on point.
Green Pal - Japanese Whiskey, Manzanilla Sherry, Dry Vermouth, Shiso
Matthias's cocktail. Pretty good, but on the sweeter side still for him, even though I asked for less vermouth.
Spicy Shrimp Roll - Daikon, Green Mango, Peanut
I do not actually remember this one being spicy, but it was a pretty good take on a Vietnamese rice roll. The sauce was pretty good.
Diver Scallop - Ham Dashi, Radish, Thai Basil
The dashi was jelled, and it covered the entire dish. Nice texture, but it and the radish kinda overwhelmed the scallops.
Pig Ear Ssam
Not on the menu any more, it seems. But it was delicious -- Matthias ate half of it. The pig ears were fried, and they came already pre-made into ssam.
Grilled Flat Iron Steak - Ramp, Parsnip, Nettle
Matthias ordered this because steak and nettle. It came with what looked and tasted like tendon puffs to me (is this a trend? I have had this in a few other places recently too). He overwhelmingly approved of this dish.
Passion Fruit Pie - Coffee, Cilantro
Surprisingly delicious. I ordered just to try, since we were there, and was not particularly keen on either offering. But the pairing of passion fruit and what tasted like a coffee crumb or coffee cookie works deliciously well. The cilantro was rather lost, however.
Overall
Pretty good. I think Matthias liked the food more than I did.
Friday, 17 April 2015
Momofuku Ko, East Village, New York, New York, USA
Cocktails
I ordered one that had fig balsamic, gin, and orgeat. Very sippable.
Quartet Cocktail
Delicious, and served very cold, as it should be. I cannot remember the ingredients, but it had a bunch of Matthias's favorite things, like bitters, and the new-to-us ingredient was Cappelletti, which turns out to be something like Campari.
Pommes Soufflees
A potato puff with caramelised onions inside.
Lobster Palois
We were told that it was a take on a lobster roll. It was a cylinder, with an open bottom, with the lobster meat inside.
Tartlet
Delightful! I'd love to know how they make the 'tart' shells. It looked like it was akin to a thin pancake batter, baked in the shape of a rectangular tart case until crisp, and then topped with pumpkin and shredded cheese.
Vegetable Roll
I remember tasting bright basil, but that is it.
Millefeuille
Thin layers of rye puff pastry sandwiched with ikura.
Madai - Consomme, Shiso
I mostly remember they spraying the top of the bowl with a shiso spray.
Razor Clam - Pineapple, Basil
Interesting. I expected this to be hot, but it was actually cold. The clams in the dashi were perfectly done, tender and sweet, and it was topped with little basil seeds too.
Sunchoke - Dry Aged Beef, Tarragon
Starchy and satisfying. If I remember correctly, the beef was actually just beef fat.Uni - Chickpea, Hozon
I never particularly like uni, but this is definitely my favorite uni dish ever. The slightly salty creaminess of the chickpea puree enhanced the flavor of the uni for me.
Mackerel Sawarazushi - Wasabi, Dashi Ponzu
Amazing. I always love aburi sushi when done well, and this definitely ranks as one of the best things I have ever put into my mouth. This one alone would have been worth staying up until 1am for a few nights to get a reservation at Ko.
Mackerel Dashi - King Oyster, Asian Pear
A nice touch to make the broth with the same mackerel bones. The Asian pear provided just the right amounts of sweetness and crunch.
Soft Scramble - Potato, Caviar, Herbs
So full of potato flavor, and so so good. I cannot say the egg portion of the dish was very memorable, but the potato puree at the bottom of the bowl and the crunchy bits of potato on the top? Very, very good. The accent of sweet potato vinegar was just right.
Bread and Butter
They offered bread with the Soft Scramble. Too white for Matthias, but otherwise pretty good. It came with some radish butter that I did not like.
Orecchiette - Octopus, Olive
It was served as 'Octopus Bolognese'. It came across more as a chilli paste with underpinnings of tomato. I think it would have been better served over hot rice than with pasta.
Branzino - Artichoke, Yogurt, Sumac
The fish was perfectly done, but it could have used more punch from the sumac.
Pork - Kimchi, Onion
I liked the kimchi topping, though it could have been spicier, but the meat itself was too fatty for me.
Foie Gras - Lychee, Pine Nut, Riesling Jelly
I do not usually appreciate foie gras, but it was more akin to a shaved ice in presentation and form, or a melting shaved cheese that is slightly funky. Eat each bite with all three components, and you have something that is not quite a dessert, and not quite a savory either.
Clementine - Campari
At this point in the degustation, this was the perfect refresher course -- indeed, we were told that this was the pre-dessert. It was served very very cold, and the Campari was just enough to cleanse the palate.
Chocolate - Mint
One soft and one crisp chocolate cookie-like base, topped with a quenelle of Fernet Branca pudding (or ice cream, I cannot remember which). It is quite light for a chocolate dessert, and pretty good.
Mignardises
It was one macaron with a fermented-something (I cannot remember what it is) filling that was rather savory, and a dulce de leche shortbread cookie. The macaron is definitely better.
Overall:
Fantastic, in a word. Worth every penny.
We can often rate a degustation by how many dishes I ate a few bites, and then handed to Matthias. This was 2 out of 17, and one of them was primarily because I asked for extra bread and was worried that if I finished the pasta too, I would not be able to eat any of the later courses.
Thursday, 16 April 2015
Chikalicious, East Village, New York, USA
Amuse
Tea panna cotta and grapefruit sorbet. I am usually not a fan of panna cotta, but that was so good that I would be excited to have an entire bowlful for dessert. The tea flavor came in strongly, balancing out the creaminess of the panna cotta.
Warm Chocolate Tart with Peppercorn Ice Cream and Red Wine Sauce
This was more like a molten chocolate cake in a tart case. Delicious, though also not particularly interesting. The peppercorn ice cream was a nice touch, but the red wine sauce got a little lost. This paired well with the suggested port.
Fromage Blanc Island "Cheese Cake"
Not a cheesecake, per Matthias. To me, it was more of a frozen mousse than a cheesecake. I cannot say I liked it very much.
Petit Fours
The Coconut marshmallows did not have any of the chew that I normally associate with marshmallows. I disdain the dessicated coconut dusted around the marshmallow too -- go fresh (maybe steamed with a pinch of salt) or go bust.
The orange cookie dough was interesting. It was soft, like a piece of fudge, dusted with what tasted like feuilletine on the outside, and perfumed with orange.
The cinnamon chocolate truffle was pleasantly bitter on the outside, before the aroma of cinnamon hits the nose.
Overall
Pretty good. I would definitely go back. I just wish they would put up the menu when they change it.
Tea panna cotta and grapefruit sorbet. I am usually not a fan of panna cotta, but that was so good that I would be excited to have an entire bowlful for dessert. The tea flavor came in strongly, balancing out the creaminess of the panna cotta.
Warm Chocolate Tart with Peppercorn Ice Cream and Red Wine Sauce
This was more like a molten chocolate cake in a tart case. Delicious, though also not particularly interesting. The peppercorn ice cream was a nice touch, but the red wine sauce got a little lost. This paired well with the suggested port.
Fromage Blanc Island "Cheese Cake"
Not a cheesecake, per Matthias. To me, it was more of a frozen mousse than a cheesecake. I cannot say I liked it very much.
Petit Fours
The Coconut marshmallows did not have any of the chew that I normally associate with marshmallows. I disdain the dessicated coconut dusted around the marshmallow too -- go fresh (maybe steamed with a pinch of salt) or go bust.
The orange cookie dough was interesting. It was soft, like a piece of fudge, dusted with what tasted like feuilletine on the outside, and perfumed with orange.
The cinnamon chocolate truffle was pleasantly bitter on the outside, before the aroma of cinnamon hits the nose.
Overall
Pretty good. I would definitely go back. I just wish they would put up the menu when they change it.
EN Japanese Brasserie, West Village, New York City, USA
We had the Aozora menu. (Note: I am writing this nearly a week after we ate there. I can no longer remember everything I ate, in particular the elements of the Zensai, of which there were at least seven.)
Ginger Cocktail & Green Tea Hi
We arrived early, and were directed to the bar.
The Ginger cocktail was bright and refreshing, and eminently drinkable. There was just enough lime in there to be a counterpoint to the ginger.
The Green Tea Hi was rather a disappointment, especially since they used bottled tea for it.
Zensai
Anago Tempura: Sweet fish flesh encased in crunchy tempura batter
Cauliflower Shira Ae: The cauliflower was perfectly cooked, but the sauce was not
Ikura: Fresh ikura atop perfect rice
Kumamoto Oyster: Delicious, as fresh oysters are wont to be, but not special otherwise.
Glazed chestnut: Sweet and creamy
Aburi Sashimi Salad
It came beautifully presented, and a tangy sauce (plum?) was poured over it. I personally think it could have done without the sauce, but I normally prefer my salads without dressing anyway.
Kinmedai To Kinoko
Essentially, fish in mushroom broth. The fish was good, and the skin still crispy despite sitting in the soup, but I am personally not a fan of mushrooms.
Uni Mousse
I do not like uni very much, but Matthias really liked it, and ate my portion too. It was served atop a cold dashi gelee.
Washugyu Steak
The apple, garlic and ginger sauce was very tasty, and the meat juicy and tender. Matthias ate most of mine because I was already quite full.
Snow Crab Rice Pot
Prior to the steak, this was placed in front of us, a stone pot on top of something resembling an essential oil diffuser (the kind that you put a tea light under), and an hourglass. They lit a small fire underneath, and once the fire goes out, which takes quite awhile, you turn the hourglass. This is to let the rice finish cooking and also to let it cool a little.
Inside, there was crab leg meat and mushrooms on top of rice. The rice was perfectly cooked, and the crab meat sweet.
Mixed Berry Panna Cotta
This was rather excellent. The berry sauce on top of the delicate and creamy panna cotta was on point, and it came with a delicious strawberry ice cream and a little tea (probably hojicha) cookie.
Overall
Pretty good. The Zensai set the tone for the meal, and everything on that plate was absolutely delicious. Out of 7 courses, Matthias finished 3 of mine for me.
The service was also excellent. The only down note was that the limited tea selection.
Matthias did have the sake pairing, and he concluded that it was kind of wasted on him since he does not know enough about sake to really enjoy it.
Ginger Cocktail & Green Tea Hi
We arrived early, and were directed to the bar.
The Ginger cocktail was bright and refreshing, and eminently drinkable. There was just enough lime in there to be a counterpoint to the ginger.
The Green Tea Hi was rather a disappointment, especially since they used bottled tea for it.
Zensai
Anago Tempura: Sweet fish flesh encased in crunchy tempura batter
Cauliflower Shira Ae: The cauliflower was perfectly cooked, but the sauce was not
Ikura: Fresh ikura atop perfect rice
Kumamoto Oyster: Delicious, as fresh oysters are wont to be, but not special otherwise.
Glazed chestnut: Sweet and creamy
Aburi Sashimi Salad
It came beautifully presented, and a tangy sauce (plum?) was poured over it. I personally think it could have done without the sauce, but I normally prefer my salads without dressing anyway.
Kinmedai To Kinoko
Essentially, fish in mushroom broth. The fish was good, and the skin still crispy despite sitting in the soup, but I am personally not a fan of mushrooms.
Uni Mousse
I do not like uni very much, but Matthias really liked it, and ate my portion too. It was served atop a cold dashi gelee.
Washugyu Steak
The apple, garlic and ginger sauce was very tasty, and the meat juicy and tender. Matthias ate most of mine because I was already quite full.
Snow Crab Rice Pot
Prior to the steak, this was placed in front of us, a stone pot on top of something resembling an essential oil diffuser (the kind that you put a tea light under), and an hourglass. They lit a small fire underneath, and once the fire goes out, which takes quite awhile, you turn the hourglass. This is to let the rice finish cooking and also to let it cool a little.
Inside, there was crab leg meat and mushrooms on top of rice. The rice was perfectly cooked, and the crab meat sweet.
Mixed Berry Panna Cotta
This was rather excellent. The berry sauce on top of the delicate and creamy panna cotta was on point, and it came with a delicious strawberry ice cream and a little tea (probably hojicha) cookie.
Overall
Pretty good. The Zensai set the tone for the meal, and everything on that plate was absolutely delicious. Out of 7 courses, Matthias finished 3 of mine for me.
The service was also excellent. The only down note was that the limited tea selection.
Matthias did have the sake pairing, and he concluded that it was kind of wasted on him since he does not know enough about sake to really enjoy it.
Saturday, 4 April 2015
Stinking Bishops, Newtown, Sydney, Australia
This was their special 1-year anniversary degustation menu
Amuse Bouche
A lovely little cup of a smoked fish soup, with apple. It was very savory, and just the thing to kick of a cold and wet evening.
Autumn Vegetables
Vegetable medley, consisting of golden beetroot, artichoke and radish, atop a delicious puree (no idea what it was, but it might be parsnip). Nicely done, but the crispy flakes of garlic were completely out of tune with the dish, and did not add to the flavor. If they wanted to add a crispy texture, toasted flaked almonds would have been the thing.
Confit Ocean Trout, Black Olive Crumb, Marinated Goats Feta
Nicely done on all counts, even the black olive crumb -- I do not like olives. The only problem was that together, they were too salty.
Rabbit Cigar, Seared Scallop, Scotch Quail Egg, Dutch Carrot, Pea
I am sad to say that they did not serve an individual, perfect pea with this dish. It came with a vibrant but grainy pea puree instead.
The rabbit cigar was minced rabbit piped diagonally along a spring roll wrapper, and deep fried. It was like Australian lor bak, but overly gamy. Very disappointing, as was the scotch quail egg.
The highlight of the dish were the Dutch carrots. They came dusted in cocoa, which is a surprisingly terrific pairing.
Overall, this was not a great dish. The individual components were not great, and I cannot see how they were meant to go together.
Cheese
They served a Comte and a soft, sheep and cow's milk cheese. As usual for the Stinking Bishops, the cheeses were delicious and served at the perfect temperature.
Hot X Bun Ice Cream Sandwich
Essentially what it says on the title: they split a hot cross bun, stuffed some cinnamon ice cream, blood orange jam and a half Cadbury creme egg in there.
And terrible. Seriously terrible.
The hot cross bun on its own was not bad. But the combination just did not work. The jam overpowered the ice cream -- you could not taste the cinnamon, just something cold and creamy -- and why on earth was there a Cadbury creme egg in there?
Overall
Very disappointing. I adore the Stinking Bishops, and maybe my expectations were too high. Matthias and I often go there in the mid-afternoon on the weekend and he likes to try whatever hot plates they have, and we have always loved the food.
If you go, stick to the cheeses (tell them what you like and let them steer you), the charcuterie (they do an awesome smoked Wagyu beef, amongst other things), and the regular menu.
Amuse Bouche
A lovely little cup of a smoked fish soup, with apple. It was very savory, and just the thing to kick of a cold and wet evening.
Autumn Vegetables
Vegetable medley, consisting of golden beetroot, artichoke and radish, atop a delicious puree (no idea what it was, but it might be parsnip). Nicely done, but the crispy flakes of garlic were completely out of tune with the dish, and did not add to the flavor. If they wanted to add a crispy texture, toasted flaked almonds would have been the thing.
Confit Ocean Trout, Black Olive Crumb, Marinated Goats Feta
Nicely done on all counts, even the black olive crumb -- I do not like olives. The only problem was that together, they were too salty.
Rabbit Cigar, Seared Scallop, Scotch Quail Egg, Dutch Carrot, Pea
I am sad to say that they did not serve an individual, perfect pea with this dish. It came with a vibrant but grainy pea puree instead.
The rabbit cigar was minced rabbit piped diagonally along a spring roll wrapper, and deep fried. It was like Australian lor bak, but overly gamy. Very disappointing, as was the scotch quail egg.
The highlight of the dish were the Dutch carrots. They came dusted in cocoa, which is a surprisingly terrific pairing.
Overall, this was not a great dish. The individual components were not great, and I cannot see how they were meant to go together.
Cheese
They served a Comte and a soft, sheep and cow's milk cheese. As usual for the Stinking Bishops, the cheeses were delicious and served at the perfect temperature.
Hot X Bun Ice Cream Sandwich
Essentially what it says on the title: they split a hot cross bun, stuffed some cinnamon ice cream, blood orange jam and a half Cadbury creme egg in there.
And terrible. Seriously terrible.
The hot cross bun on its own was not bad. But the combination just did not work. The jam overpowered the ice cream -- you could not taste the cinnamon, just something cold and creamy -- and why on earth was there a Cadbury creme egg in there?
Overall
Very disappointing. I adore the Stinking Bishops, and maybe my expectations were too high. Matthias and I often go there in the mid-afternoon on the weekend and he likes to try whatever hot plates they have, and we have always loved the food.
If you go, stick to the cheeses (tell them what you like and let them steer you), the charcuterie (they do an awesome smoked Wagyu beef, amongst other things), and the regular menu.
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